Melt & Pour Glycerin Soap Recipes3

Color Blend Melt & Pour Soap Tutorial

^Above^ The finished product - A beautiful bar of color-blended soap!

Prepare your ingredients. You will need two microwave-proof containers.

Color and scent both bases. (See Basic Melt and Pour instructions in the following post!)


Test temperature. If the temperature of either base is higher than 130 ºF, cover base with saran wrap and check temperature every five minutes.

When base is 120 ºF to 130 ºF (this applies ONLY to Bramble Berry, Inc. bases - other melt and pour bases have higher or lower temperature points. If using another brand of base, the base should not be steaming and be slightly viscous and within 60 to 90 seconds of setting up), make sure the colorants and fragrance are stirred in completely.


Pick up both colors. Position each colorant on opposite sides of the mold and start pouring slowly. Keep each color of base as close to the opposing sides of the mold as possible. By pouring slowly, you'll inhibit the colorant mixing.

Spray the poured soap with alcohol and wait 3 to 4 hours until the base is set up before popping out of molds and wrapping.
-From: http://www.teachsoap.com/colorblend.html

Melt & Pour Glycerin Soap Recipes2

Melt & Pour Glycerin Soap

Basic Materials:
Melt & Pour Soap Base
Glass measuring cup or bowl
Soap mold/s
Fragrance: essential oils or fragrance oils
Any additives, such as herbs, flowers, aloe vera, vitamin E, honey,
or powdered ingredients, such as oatmeal or apricot meal, etc.
Soap colorants: cosmetic grade (liquid dyes or color nuggets)
Wooden stirs or craft sticks for stirring
Small fine spray bottle of alcohol
Microwave (preferred), or double boiler

Directions:
Cut desired amount of soap base into 1" chunks and place into your glass measuring cup. Microwave at 20-30 second intervals until all the chunks are liquefied, avoid boiling. Add your colorant, a small amount at a time, until the desired color is achieved. Stir slowly to prevent bubbles. If you are using color nuggets, melt a portion alongwith your soap to achieve the desired shade. Set aside for a few minutes to prepare your mold/s, fragrance and any additives. Set your mold on a level surface and be sure its clean and dry. Begin adding your additivesand fragrance (about ¼ - ½ tsp. per cup of M&P) to the melted soap. Avoid adding the fragrance while the soap is too hot or the scent may burn off from the heat of the soap. However, waiting too long will cause the soap to begin to set up and form a top skin. Once you have incorporated your additives and fragrance, pour the soap into your mold. If you have bubbles forming on the surface, spritz them lightly with the alcohol. Let soapcool for 30 minutes or until firm and remove from mold. Putting the mold in the freezer for a few minutes will help the soaps release easier. Air dry on a rack or wax paper overnight and wrap in cello bags, decorative paper, shrink wrap or saran wrap to preserve the fragrance.

Tips:
Pure glycerin soap can also be re-melted with little or no additives, fragrance or colorants. You can also use found objects as molds, such as plastic drawer organizers or Jello molds, etc. Try experimenting, it's a fun and useful craft.

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Melt & Pour Glycerin Soap Recipes1

Basic Melt and Pour Soap Tutorial

^ABOVE:^ The finished product - a beautifully handcrafted bar of soap!

step one
You can melt the base in a double boiler or the microwave. If you choose the microwave, make sure you cover the bowl you are melting the melt and pour (MP) with Saran Wrap to keep the excess moisture from evaporating out. Simply melt the base on high for one minute and stir the remaining, unmelted pieces in.
If you use a double-boiler, simply bring the water to boil, add your melt and pour, cover, turn the heat on low and walk away. Check on the base periodically to see it it's melted.


step two
If you add fragrance oil, add it after the base is fully melted. Stir until the fragrance is fully incorporated and the base doesn't look "cloudy." Start with .25 ounce per pound of base and work up or down from there. You can also use essential oils.


step three
If you wish to add colorant, add the color when the base is melting. Just throw in 1/8 teaspoon to 1/4 teaspoon mica with the melting base and stir it in really well. Spray any "mica bubbles" that form on the top with rubbing alcohol. To use food coloring, simply put in 1 drop at a time to your melted base and color to preference. Too much can stain hands and towels, so be careful!


step four
Pour into your molds - and spray the top with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any excess bubbles.


step five
Use and enjoy once the soap is hard - which takes a few hours.
-From: http://www.teachsoap.com/mp.html

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Cold Process Soap Recipes 3

Silk Soap - Cold Process Soap Recipe by Leila Gaines


GOAL:
To create a hard bar with a silky sheen, that is both moisturizing and with great lather. Silk proteins added for added skin pampering. Very faint coloring.

Your base ingredients
Sweet Almond Oil .............................5 oz (6.25%)
Castor Oil.............................3 oz (3.75%)
Coconut Oil.............................16 oz (20.00%)
Olive Oil.............................28 oz (35.00%)
Palm Oil.............................8 oz (10.00%)
Palm Kernel Oil.............................4 oz (5.00%)
Shea Butter.............................8 oz (10.00%)
Pistachio Oil.............................5 oz (6.25%)
Emu Oil.............................3 oz (3.75%)

10.76 oz lye (I use 305g as individual grams are easier to measure and control on the scale.
8% superfat
24 oz water
pinch of silk fibers (a little less than 2 grams) or 1/2 tsp. of liquid silk
Mix at 100 degrees
2 oz fragrance, mixed with 1 oz of the reserved almond oil
1/2 tsp mica color

How to mix 'em up

1. Line wooden mold or prepare plastic molds. Don goggles & gloves. Mix lye with water. Stir until clear. Add silk. Stir until dissolved. Let rest while preparing oils.

2. Melt PKO, Palm & Coconut oil together. Add castor oil. In separate container, measure out olive oil, pistachio oil, 4 oz of Almond oil together. In third container, melt Shea butter, add emu oil.

3. Add lye to coconut/PKO/Palm/castor oil mixture. Zap with stick blender until liquid is well mixed and lighter in color. Add olive oil & nut oil mixtures. Zap with stick blender for a 10 second burst. Add shea butter mixture. HANDSTIR. (Shea butter sets trace very quickly). Keep stirring until light trace is achieved. Add almond oil/fragrance mixture. Stir.

4. Take out 1 c. of mixture. Add mica color. Whisk until mica is completely dissolved and there are no dots of color. Mixture should be creamy smooth. Add to rest of soap, and stir until completely mixed, or swirl into soap for effect, as you prefer.

5. For CP Method: Pour into mold. Cover mold, wrap in a blanket, paying attention to all the corners, and do not peek for 24 hours. Unmold, cut, and cure for a minimum of 6 weeks.

6. CPOP Method: Pour into mold (untreated wood, lined with freezer paper). Add freezer paper shiny side to soap on top of soap. Cover mold. Pop into preheated 170 degree oven for 90 minutes. NO PEEKING. Turn off oven, and let soap sit in oven for at least 12 hours. I recommend 18. Take soap out, slice and cure for 1 to 2 weeks.

Notes: I've made this soap with Violet FO, and used violet pearl mica to swirl the soap. I have very subtle veins of lavender throughout a creamy, shiny soap with a scent that is marvelously complex. Floral, old-fashioned, almost fruity. Very feminine.
-From: http://www.teachsoap.com/silkcp.html
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Olive Cream Soap


A delightful summer scented soap with a fresh green tint will brighten up the dullest of days....
You'll like this one as much as we do!

Ingredients:
35 ozs Coconut 76 Oil
20 ozs Olive Oil
16 ozs Palm Oil
15 ozs Olive Butter
12.5 ozs Sodium Hydroxide
32 ozs Distilled Water
Chrome Green Iron Oxide
Yellow Iron Oxide
4 ozs Olive Cream Fragrance Oil

Follow the basic instructions for cold process soap. Just before trace add 2-3 tablespoons of green and yellow oxide to achieve the color. Then add the fragrance oil and pour into your mold. We stamped the soap bars with our Soap Stamps, after they where cut into cubes about a day or two after taken out of the mold.
Weigh all ingredients. Recipe makes 8 lbs.
-From: http://www.pvsoap.com/recipe_olive_cream_soap.htm
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Cold Process Goats Milk Soap: Makes 4 lbs. Weigh all ingredients, following basic cold process method. 8 oz. distilled water (cold) 8 oz. goat milk (cold) 6.5 oz. lye (sodium hydroxide) 8 oz. palm oil 17 oz. coconut 76 oil 17 oz. olive oil 1 oz grapefruit seed extract 2-3 ozs. essential oil Mix the distilled water and goat milk together in a container. Add the lye to the water/goat milk mixture and watch as it turns a tan color. Stir in all the lye. Let sit about 10 minutes. Don't be concerned about the temperature of the lye mixture or oils mixture. Prepare your oils, add lye/water/goat milk mixture to the oils. The lye/water/goat milk mixture will look curdled, stir and add it to the pot of oils. Using a stick blender mix well and continue through to trace. Add grapefruit seed extract as a preservative and any scent you like. We've chosen Ginger Essential Oil for a wonderful "Zen" scent. Pour into your mold, cover and let set 20-24 hrs. Cure cut soap for 4 weeks. Goats milk soap has a creamy smooth texture and is very nourishing for your skin. -From: http://www.pvsoap.com/recipe_goats_milk_soap.htm

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Castile/Castila Soap From Castile, or Castilia, a province in Spain, from which it originally came. A kind of fine, hard, white or mottled soap, made with olive oil and soda. Although this soap is slow to lather, a little work yields an abundance of rich, creamy suds mild enough for the most sensitive skin. Castile soap is so gentle, it's often used as baby's first soap. Makes 2 lbs. Very Easy. Follow the basic cold process soap making instructions. Soap temperature 100-120°, a bit hotter should be fine since this is a small batch and will loose heat quickly. Cure for 6 weeks for best results. 1. 8 lbs of Pure 100% Olive Oil 1 oz of beeswax pearls (gives this bar a silky texture) 4 ozs of lye (sodium hydroxide) 10 ozs of distilled water Melt the beeswax in the olive oil until temperatures reach approximately 120°. Add the lye to the water stirring well (follow basic cold process instructions) and add to the oil/beeswax mixture when it cools to 120°. Stir until trace and pour into mold. Optional additional additives: Ground dried chamomile 1/4 cup or less and chamomile fragrance oil (2 ozs.) added at trace. -From: http://www.pvsoap.com/recipe_castile_soap.htm

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Shea-Mango Conditioning Soap



This is a creamy, all-over body soap, enriched with soothing pure shea and mango butters. We've kept ours without any scent, but feel free to add any scent you wish.

Recipe makes 4 lbs. (approximately 16 - 4 oz bars). Follow the basic instructions for cold process soap making.

Ingredients: (weigh all ingredients)
16 ounces olive oil
16 ounces coconut oil or palm kernel flakes
8 ounces shea butter
8 ounces mango butter
17 ounces water
6.8 ounces sodium hydroxide (lye)
2 ounces of fragrance (optional)

Chenille Washcloths


Your handcrafted soap will be even more special along side one of these plush, all-cotton chenille washcloths that you knit. Made of 100% cotton chenille yarn by Crystal Palaceâ„¢ available at Perfect Touch Yarns, http://www.ptyarns.com.
Pattern available in Weekend Knitting : 50 Unique Projects and Ideas (Hardcover)
by Melanie Falick: Click HERE!
-From: http://www.pvsoap.com/recipe_sheasoap_washcloth.htm
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Cold Process Soap Recipes 2

Quote:

Gentle Acne Soap-Cold Process Soap Recipe by Leila Gaines GOAL: To create a gentle acne soap. I do NOT make any claims to its effectiveness in combating acne. However, this soap should make your skin feel and look a bit better. This soap is made using the method of water reduction to speed saponification and cure. Soap could be ready for use within 1 week, however I do recommend longer cures for better lather. This method requires meticulous measuring and timing. It is also imperative that good safety measures be taken as you are making stronger lye solutions which are much more potent and quite vicious to live tissue. If you are more comfortable with weaker lye solutions, then triple the amount of water given in the recipe. This recipe uses the gentle purifying qualities of lavender and the antiseptic properties of niaouli (tea tree family) to help deal with break-outs. Grapeseed has astringent qualities, and will provide lively bubbles in combination with olive oil. Your base ingredients - 1500g batch - 12 bars approx. Olive Oil ............................. 525g Palm Kernel Oil ............................. 525g Rice Bran Oil ............................. 150g Grapeseed Oil ............................. 300g Sodium Hydroxide ............................. 210g Water ............................. 225g French Green Clay ............................. 3 Tablespoons Lavandin Essential Oil ............................. 25g Niaouli Essential Oil ............................. 25g Making the soap 1. Add lye to very cold water and whisk gently and constantly until solution is clear. Let cool to 90 ºF. 2. Gently heat Palm Kernel Oil until melted, and pour over liquid oils. Heat of all oils combined should be around 90 ºF 3. Make a slurry of the clay and essential oils. Use about 1/2 oz of your olive oil to make a smooth slurry. 4. Add the lye solution to the base oils with your stick-blender whirring away in the oils. Alternate between hand whisking and the stick blender until trace. At medium trace, add your EO slurry. Mix very well. 5. Pour into your prepared mold. I try to keep the soap from gelling at this point by keeping it cool. Seems to agree with the lavender scent better 6. Unmold and cut 12 hours after pouring. Soap should be smooth and fine-grained. If using more water, wait about 18 hours before unmolding and cutting. Enjoy!! -from: http://www.teachsoap.com/acnesoap.html

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Cold Process Soap Recipes 1

Cold Process Soap Base Recipe I

This is an easy, mild olive oil soap, good for beginners.
Recipe: (Makes 8 lbs.)
24 oz. olive oil
24 oz. coconut oil
38 oz. vegetable shortening (Crisco)
12 oz. lye
32 oz. distilled water
3-4 oz. any essential or fragrance oil

Equipment Needed:
Scale that weighs in pounds and ounces
Large one-gal. stainless steel or enamel pot (use this exclusively for soap-making)
Two plastic pitchers, 2-3 qt. size
Hand stick blender (optional, but makes tracing much easier)
Plastic measuring cup 2-3 cup size
Two wooden or plastic spoons (one for the lye and one for the oils. Use these exclusively for soap-making)
Two kitchen thermometers (one for the lye and one for the oils - must read to over 100 degrees)
Rubber gloves
Safety goggles
Clear plastic container with snap-on lid 8" x 11" x 3" deep, or wooden soap mold lined with freezer paper
Large piece of cardboard the size of the wooden mold - used as a lid
Old blanket
Freezer paper or plastic garbage bags

Cold Process Soap Base Recipe II

This base recipe creates a mild, great lathering and firm bar of soap. It is our personal favorite. Recipe may be cut in half. Makes 12 lb. batch.
Use wood or plastic mold (lined).
3 lbs Distilled Water
17 ozs Lye (Sodium Hydroxide)
4 lbs Olive Oil
2 lbs, 8 ozs Coconut Oil
1 lb, 8 ozs Palm Oil
1 oz. Grapefruit Seed Extract (optional)
4 -6 ozs of essential or fragrance oil
Temperature 90°-110° - 4 week cure time
Follow the same basic instructions from Cold Process Soap Base Recipe I
To Superfat: add 3.2 ozs of shea butter to the oils.
To Make a Oatmeal/Honey Soap: at saponification add --1 cup ground oats, 4 tablespoons slightly warm honey,
4-6 ozs fragrance or essential oils (optional).

Remember:
Be sure to allow for the weight of the containers. Lye (Sodium Hydroxide NaOH) All ingredients should be weighed. Begin by putting on your goggles and rubber gloves and weigh out 12 ozs. of lye into one of the plastic containers. Weigh out 32 oz of distilled water into the other container. Slowly and in a steady stream pour the lye into the water, stirring until dissolved. Do this in a well ventilated area and try not to splash. Let the lye/water mixture sit until the temperature reaches between 90-100 degrees. This may take several hours, but if you're in a hurry you can place the container in a cold water bath to bring down the temperature quicker.

In the meantime, get your oils ready by weighing out 24 oz. of coconut oil and 38 oz. of vegetable shortening and placing them into your pot. Heat them up just until they melt and then remove from heat and add the 24 ozs. of olive oil. Stir to incorporate and put one of the thermometers into the pot to check the temperature. The oils will also have to be between 90-100 degrees. Both the lye/water mixture and the oils will have to be at the same temperature before incorporating them.

Prepare your additives. Start with just 3-4 ozs. of essential oil or a combination of essential oils (blend). *Note- (some essential oil scents are stronger, so use less, some are lighter and you may add more depending on your preference). Also, measure 1/4 cup of any dried herbs or flowers (optional). Its best to start simple for your first batch. You can also add 1-3 tablespoons of pigment (optional) for coloring.

Grease the clear plastic container that you're using as your mold and place a piece of freezer paper on the bottom of the container for easy release OR line the container with a plastic garbage bag. If you are using our wooden soap mold, line it with freezer paper.

Check the temperature of the lye and oils. When they reach between 90-100°, its time to "make soap." Slowly pour the lye/water mixture into the oils, stirring continuously. You may continue to stir using a spoon or switch to the stick blender. Stir or blend in all the lye and you will begin to see the mixture thicken. Just as the mixture thickens to the point where you see tracks or "trace" in the soap, add essential oils and any dried ingredients or colorants. Remove about 2 cups of the mixture and add the colorant to the 2 cups. Then add that back into the pot. Continue to stir or blend until you see designs on the top of the soap (this is known as tracing and can happen in 10-40 minutes depending on the temperature of your mixture). Quickly add the mixture to the mold. Cover with the lid. *Note* if the soap mixture does not fill the mold to the top, place a piece of freezer paper on top of the soap and then put the lid or a piece of cardboard on the container. This will prevent soda ash. Wrap in blankets and place in an undisturbed area for 18 hrs. Remove the blankets and lid and leave the soap in the mold for another 12 hrs.

You should have a nice hard block of fresh soap which you can now remove from the mold. Let the block of soap sit for a day to firm up or slice into bars or chunks immediately. Then place bars in an open box or drying rack for 2 weeks or longer. Don't allow the bars to touch one another. The soap should be cured completely after 2 weeks, but the longer it cures, the milder and harder it will be.

Tip: Good instruction and preparation is the key to being successful with your first batch. Good Luck, and happy soaping! Sodium Hydroxide can be purchased online at: http://www.chemistrystore.com/Sodium_Hydroxide.htm
or http://www.boyercorporation.com/
-From: http://www.pvsoap.com/instructionsforcoldprocess.htm

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JOIN MY BLOGLIST

I LOVE reading blogs, especially Inspiring ones with arts & crafts Ideas, Parenting & Kids Stuff, Wiccan/Pagan, etc, so if you want to share your blog links with me I will happily add you to my Bloglist. Just post a comment to this blog, and include your blog Url:) I will add you as soon as I see your blog. My bloglist is in Alphabetical order by Blog name:) I will also leave your links as comments here in the event that the module goes batty on me so I don't lose it:)
Thank you in advance for sharing
-Archangel

Archangel's Pyrography Tips And Tricks

For my own work, I do one of two things:

1-If the artwork is my own, I photocopy it, and use carbon paper to trace the image onto the wood.

2-If the artwork is not my own: I print out coloring book pages/patterns and use carbon paper to trace the images onto the wood, the shading and detail i do by eye, and I always add my own personal touches to make it my own:)

My Ghetto Woodburner
I broke my wood burner shortly after last christmas-as in (2004) so I have been using a soldering Iron in it's place until I can afford to buy a better quality one;) It actually works, I couldnt believe it, especially since its ony a 30 amp tool.

The soldering iron only cost $8.00 at some dollar store, and it has screws in it so I can still use and change my attatchments from my original burner;) just in case you happen to break yours, and have a thirst for the woodburning craft like I do, I thought I would pass this info on;)

Search Engines

These are some Search Engines I use... Please ad your own favorites as comments to this post...

http://www.sorcerysearch.com/
http://www.dogpile.com/info.dogpl/
http://www.excite.com/
http://www.excite.com/
http://infoseek.go.com/
http://mysearchnow.com/
http://www.altocelebs.com/
http://www.search123.com/
http://www.altavista.com/
http://www.google.ca/
http://search.aol.ca/
http://wiccanet.net/
http://www.webplaces.com/search/
http://www.horrorfind.com/
http://www.avatarsearch.com/
http://www.webcrawler.com/
http://www3.sympatico.ca/wda_572/search.htm
http://www.sorcerysearch.com/
http://www.dogpile.com/info.dogpl/
http://www.excite.com/
http://www.excite.com/
http://infoseek.go.com/
http://mysearchnow.com/
http://www.altocelebs.com/
http://www.search123.com/
http://www.altavista.com/
http://www.google.ca/
http://search.aol.ca/
http://wiccanet.net/
http://www.webplaces.com/search/
http://www.horrorfind.com/
http://www.avatarsearch.com/
http://www.webcrawler.com/
http://www3.sympatico.ca/wda_572/search.htm

Sites With Free Scrapbooking Templates

http://ikeagoddess.blogspot.com/
http://ditterstemplates.blogspot.com/
http://thedailydigi.com/
http://scrappindigistyle.blogspot.com/
http://timounette.canalblog.com/
http://jam1el33.blogspot.com/
http://www.kyliemdesigns.com/home/digitallife
http://camillaskitchen.blogspot.com/
http://happydigiscrapper.blogspot.com/
http://scrapness.blogspot.com/
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http://ellielash.com/ctblog/
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http://ledigiscrapdefanette.blogspot.com/
http://www.twopeasinabucket.com/shop/10000074/
http://www.godigitalscrapbooking.com/blog/
http://digital-crea.fr/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1894
http://www.storeide.se/gunhild/index.htm
http://1905designs.blogspot.com/
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http://designbydani.com/girltalk/
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http://thaliris.canalblog.com/
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http://digitreats.typepad.com/creativeteam/
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http://ellielash.com/blog/
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http://scrapdececi.over-blog.com/
http://www.elisja.blogspot.com/
http://stolenmomentsdesign.blogspot.com/
http://tinkstrinkets.blogspot.com/
http://wordartfun.blogspot.com/
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http://carries.typepad.com/carrie_stephens_blabbers/
http://charliesdigiscraps.blogspot.com/
http://digitalscrapcafe.com/cafe/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=54
http://thereisafineline.blogspot.com/
http://pouyou.over-blog.fr/
http://censloft.blogspot.com/
http://www.nanine.fr/blog/
http://scrapanges.blogspot.com/
http://simplysusangodfrey.blogspot.com/
http://webdesignzbykristi.com/blog/

My Winter Hat For Ronnie

My Winter Hat For Ronnie
I wanted to crochet a "cool & modern" hat for my oldest son Ronnie to match his winter coat. so here it is, I had to majorly modify a pattern I'd found online, & I LOVE my own design much better.... It's easier and looks great:) I ended up making a black & red striped hat:)
No pic available

Color A: Red (Accent Color)
Color B: Black (Main Color)

GAUGE:
12 sc = 4 in. (10cm). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

HAT
NOTE: Carry unused color up WS of work.
With A, ch 4, join with sl st in beg ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc in ring, join with sl st in beg ch.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc, join with sl st in beg ch – 12 sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch – 18 sc.
Change to B.
Rnd 4: With B, ch 1, *sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch – 24 sc.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, *sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch – 30 sc.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, *sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch – 36 sc.
Change to A.
Rnd 7: With A, ch 1, *sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch – 42 sc.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, *sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch – 48 sc.
Rnd 9: Ch 1, *sc in each of next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg ch – 54 sc.
Change to B.
Rnd 10: With B, ch 1, *sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Change to A.
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Change to B.
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Change to A.
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Change to B.
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 24: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Change to A.
Rnd 25: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 26: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in beg ch – 60 sc.
Fasten off.

BORDER
Join B, ch 1, work in reverse sc around sl st in beg ch.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

_________________

Namaste!
-Archangel-Baw Forums Owner


http://bawcraftworx.forumotion.com/

http://bornagainwiccan.forumotion.com/

Making PDF Files From Websites

-How To Make A PDF File out of your Favorite Websites Using Adobe Acrobat Reader 6.0 NOTE: This technique Works ONLY with Adobe Acrobat 6.0 the newer versions won't do it :(

Before we get to the hard stuff, let me just explain the easy parts - Never Ninja someone else's website with the intent of selling the PDF File to ANYONE! They Have EVERY Right To Sue Your Ass Off & If They Do You Deserve It!

-The LEGAL & ONLY REASON to WebNinja @ all is so you can surf your favorite sites offline, and it is for your own PERSONAL Use:)

For Example: Assuming You're not a millionaire;) Lets Say You found A Great Tutorial on How to Paint/Draw/Use A New Program You Bought and so on... but You can't afford the manual that is OVER $100.00 nor ink, paper, a printer, internet service /whatever, you can still learn the techniques without having any of these.

The answer to your problem (while you DO have internet) is Adobe Acrobat Reader... So when u lose your job, someone steals your wallet or whatever other financially challenged circumstance you may be involuntarily stricken with, it won't be so bad because you
may be broke, but hey, you can carve wood, build a new house, Hidden in the woods where you won't NEED internet, or make whatever else you want... And this my friends is how you work magick with adobe...

Step 1: Open Adobe, wait for it to load up & Click The "Hide " button on the How To Menu Located On the Right Side of The Page. Images 1a & 1b show what adobe will look like before & After you click hide.



Step 2: Click On "File" In the Top left menu. See Image 2 below:



Step 3: Highlight "Create PDF" From the menu that pops out & then->Highlight & CLICK "From Web Page." A small window will now pop up that says "Create PDF From Web Page"See Images 3a & 3b below:



Step 4: Copy & Paste The Link for the site You want into the space Beside the Word "URL:" See Image 4 below...



Step 5: there are 2 options here:
Option a) If you only want a few select pages just leave everything else alone & Click "Create"

Option b) If You Want The Entire website, click "Get entire site" and "Stay on same path" and "Stay on same server" Then Click "Create".

NOTE: (Another window will pop up that says download status, leave it alone & let adobe do its thing:)

Step Six: Depending on which choice you made, in step 5, follow the applicable directions below:

If you picked option a) Wait for adobe to pull up the page, then click on all the links to any additional pages you want,ONE at a time & wait for adobe to pull them up before clicking another link. The only disadvantage to this is if the site/section you want is huge you have a LOT of clicking to to, so make sure you do it THE FIRST TIME, in the order you want it to appear in the left menu. Trust me, you will NOT want to have to start over.

If You Picked Option b) Adobe does all the work for you, you just have to wait & save it when its done. The 2 disadvantages to this is it takes a little bit longer than you would like it to, (I recommend closing all other open programs, this makes it faster). You may end up with pages you didn't want! Other than that there are none. its pretty cool to watch Adobe in action.

Step 7: When You have all the pages you want, & your ready to save it you have 3 options:
Option 1) Click The little picture of the floppy disk to save it,
Option 2) Click "File" In the Top left menu then Click "Save"
Option 3) Click "File" In the Top left menu then Click"Save As" & Name the file.

Congrats! You Are Now An Official MagickWebNinja!

Baby Neck Pillow

Archangel's Baby Neck Pillow

(:Pattern coming soon:)
These are pictures a baby neck pillow I made for my second son Marcus and my niece out of one of my moms' pajama shirts:)

Click images to view actual size. Click back on your browser to return to this post:)

Marcus Wearing His Baby Neck Pillow:

_________________

Namaste!
-Archangel-Baw Forums Owner

http://bawcraftworx.forumotion.com/
http://bornagainwiccan.forumotion.com/

Blue Jean Organizers

 Archangel's Blue Jean Organizers
 
This is a pic of organizers I make by recycling old jeans.

So far I've made one for my oldest Son Ronnie and One for My Husband Marc, & I have one currently in the works For my baby supplies:) I just need 2 more pockets, lol:)

I used to use Marc's to hold Baby Marcus' new born, 1 & 2 month diapers (when he was smaller), they don't quite fit anymore, he'll be 3 months old soon, the day after my birthday, and he's around 13-15 lbs:)

_________________

Namaste!
-Archangel-Baw Forums Owner

http://bawcraftworx.forumotion.com/
http://bornagainwiccan.forumotion.com/

Re-Useable Multi Purpose Draw-String Bags

Archangels Re-Useable Multi Purpose Draw-String Bags

These Drawstring bags are easy to sew by hand:)

Materials needed:
A scrap of fabric approx. 4" X 10" (Use 100% cotton, muslin or cheesecloth)
thread
Decorative lace or trim (optional)
A piece of ribbon around 22" long (for drawstring)

Directions:
Sew the trim on to one end of the fabric. Fold the fabric in half with the right sides together, lining up the lace end.

Make a narrow seam down both edges. Turn so right sides are out. You can vary the size and scent of these sachets to your liking.

Decorative Options:
You can decorate with stamps, Iron on patterns, fabric paint, beads, cross stitching, or embroidery:)

Multiple Uses:

Tea/Coffee Bags:
Put a small amount of your favorite ingestable fresh or dried herbs, flowers, spices, or coffee in the bags.

Roll them loosely, and drop them in your tea or coffee cup. Wash immediateley after each use, let air dry, and they are ready for re-use.

Dry Scented Herbs/Potpourri:
Decorated with stamps:)
Put a small amount of herbs, flowers, spices, etc, place around house. Squeeze bag to release scent.

Simply refresh herbals scents with essential oils every so often.

Wash Bags:
To use, See Washbag Recipes In Baw Spa:)

Medicine Pouches:
Theses are easier to make, take a small square of fabric, In the center, Place your medicinal herbs.

Pull all corners & sides together & tie off with a ribbon:) To Use: drop in a hot bath.

Discard herbs after use and rinse fabric. Hang to dry for re-use.

-This Article By Archangel, Copyright Born Again Wiccan 2008:)
_________________

Namaste!
-Archangel-Baw Forums Owner


http://bawcraftworx.forumotion.com/
http://bornagainwiccan.forumotion.com/

Bath Recipes

Archangels' Bath Recipes

)O( ARCHANGELS' RED CLOVER LUCK BATH )O(
Make a pot of tea from
3 Red Clover Blossoms -freshly cut
3 Red Clover Leaves -freshly cut
3 Pinches of Chinese Grean Tea -dried
3 New Pennies- drop them in the pot while it steeps.
Let steep until cold. Add 1 cup to bath water for 3 consecutive days.
You May charge the water with any luck chant you wish, but I find it is only neccessary to concentrate on the good luck you wish to draw into your life while soaking in the bath.
If it is luck in love you wish to draw toward you, add 3 drops of rose oil, or 3 rose petals to the brew.
If it is Luck in money matters, Leave the brew as it is, or add
anything else you feel is appropriate, and so on. You can use the Correspondences & Wiccanese forums for help with magickal ingredients. Best of luck
_________________

Archangels' Aura Clearing Bath Ritual
Use 2 TBSP of seasalt
in your next bath, burn frankincence incense in the bathroom (if you
have any) & before getting into the bath hold your projectory hand
over the bath water & chant:

"Archangel Gabriel, I now summon Thee
Come clear my Cords and Auras please;
Salt and water cleanse away,
All debris that I've absorbed today,
And Frankincence, Clear Me & My living space,
Of Negativity leave no trace."

Do not leave the tub until you feel like it. This Rite is all about
giving to YOURSELF! This means make sure you do this at a time when you
are NOT rushed by an appointment of some sort, or when you are least
likely to be interrupted. Personally, I prefer before bed, After having
done this a few times, it became automatic! Everey bath I take is Now a
Ritual;) It has a few other perks aswell: I have fewer nightmares now,
it helps me get a better night's rest, I sleep deeper, without being
startled awake by night terrors. I wake up feeling refreshed, alert and
well rested.
_________________

Namaste!
-Archangel-Baw Forums Owner


http://bawcraftworx.forumotion.com/

Archangel's Floating Garden

Archangel's Floating Garden:

These are pictures of a floating flower garden I made, In a cute planter I bought at walmart.
They don't last long at all but they're beautiful to look at:)....


See Other Pix From My Garden Post...

_________________

Namaste!
-Archangel-Baw Forums Owner


http://bawcraftworx.forumotion.com/
http://bornagainwiccan.forumotion.com/